The story of the Sukajan Jackets
The story of an opportunity.
Tokyo, June 3rd 1948.
As Mr. Yoshida walks to his souvenir shop, his mind is filled with worry. It’s been three years since the war ended, yet the challenges it left behind seem to only be growing.
Suddenly, it begins to rain. Quickly, Mr. Yoshida dashes to shelter under the awning of a nearby shop. As he waits for the rain to ease, he watches the busy street.
Elderly women take cover under their hats, children laugh as they run, and foreigners hurry about their day.
Most of these foreigners are American soldiers, present everywhere since the U.S. established military bases across the country after the war. One of these bases is located in the same neighborhood as Mr. Yoshida’s shop.
It was the arrival of these foreigners that inspired Mr. Yoshida to open his souvenir shop. Since many Japanese no longer had the means to purchase expensive items, he decided to sell to the Americans instead.
Kimonos and obis were very popular.
Japan, known for its high-quality textiles, had a reputation that reached far beyond its borders. However, there was a problem—despite the poverty caused by the war, the Japanese people held a deep attachment to their cultural heritage and were reluctant to see all their treasures sold.
That’s when Mr. Yoshida had a breakthrough
“Why not create a new product, designed specifically for Americans, so they can wear a piece of Japan proudly back home?”
The idea took off.
The baseball jacket was chosen, a familiar garment to Americans, and intricate Japanese embroidery was added.
Silk, though beautiful, was too delicate for these detailed designs. After experimenting, they settled on acetate, a material with a lustrous appearance like silk but much more durable.
In some cases, they used velvet, a tough fabric traditionally used for socks. The lining was made of quilted compressed cotton to keep it secure and prevent shifting over time. Zippers were added for a "luxury" finish.
And so, the iconic embroidered Japanese jacket was born.
The rise of the sukajan jacket
Its popularity quickly spread beyond the souvenir shops around the American military bases. Soon, these embroidered jackets became a hot item in tourist destinations, driving demand for more artisans to keep up with production.
However, at the time, machine embroidery didn’t exist, so not all craftsmen could achieve the same level of skill in their embroidery. This led to a wide range of prices depending on the quality of the work.
By the 1970s, the jacket became synonymous with the city of Yokosuka and earned the nickname “Sukajan” (a mix of “Yokosuka” and “jumper”).
PRIDE OF YOKOSUKA
Exhibition of Souvenir Jacket "Sukajyan"
Embraced by rebellious youth and immortalized on television, the Sukajan jacket became a symbol of Japanese popular culture—representing an era freed from war and thriving in economic growth.
In the 1980s, as vintage fashion gained popularity in the U.S., the Sukajan became a coveted item. This period likely saw many of the original jackets make their way back to Japan.
Even today, the embroidered Sukajan remains a staple of Japanese pop culture. Walking through the streets of Tokyo, it’s not uncommon to find vintage shops selling them, though they are rarely worn by Japanese people themselves.
If you're curious about where to find Sukajan, check out military surplus shops in Ueno or Sukajyan Dept in Omotesando, Tokyo.