Kogin Embroidery in Hirosaki
Textile Journey in Japan : Day 1
Hirosaki: A Magical Start
Entrance of the Hirosaki castle under the snow on december 2024.
Hirosaki, nestled in the snowy Aomori Prefecture in northern Japan, was the perfect starting point for my textile journey. As soon as I arrived, thick snowflakes began falling, blanketing the town in a dreamlike landscape. The stillness and serenity of the scene made it unforgettable.
But what drew me here wasn’t just the beauty of the city—it was its hidden treasure: the legacy of kogin embroidery, a centuries-old craft rooted in the region’s history.
The Origins of Kogin Embroidery
Image from https://kogin.net where they explain very well the details of every pattern.
Kogin embroidery traces its origins back to the Edo period and the Tsugaru region’s harsh winters. In 1724, the “Farmers’ Frugality Order” was issued, strictly regulating what farmers could wear. Cotton was off-limits, leaving farmers to rely on hemp for their clothing, even in the snowy north where the material was poorly suited to the cold.
To combat these challenges, farmers began embroidering their layered hemp garments with hemp thread, reinforcing areas prone to wear and increasing warmth through dense stitching. This practice was born out of necessity but quickly evolved into an art form, reflecting the ingenuity and resilience of the Tsugaru people.
The Beauty of Utility
Kogin embroidery was not just functional; it became a canvas for creativity. Inspired by the natural world, patterns depicted motifs like flowers, walnuts, and geometric shapes. Over time, this artistry became competitive among farmers, who would create increasingly intricate designs.
By the Meiji era, restrictions on cotton were lifted, and white cotton thread was used to embroider patterns on indigo-dyed linen. These beautiful pieces became an essential part of wedding preparations, showcasing the bride's skill and creativity.
Decline and Revival
The introduction of railways in the late 19th century brought new materials and ready-made clothing to Tsugaru, leading to a decline in kogin embroidery. Cotton garments, warmer and more durable, replaced labor-intensive embroidered pieces.
Fortunately, the Mingei movement of the Showa era, led by Muneyoshi Yanagi, revived interest in kogin embroidery. Yanagi praised the work of Tsugaru’s “nameless women” and collected kogin kimonos, bringing the craft into the national spotlight. Today, kogin embroidery has found new life in modern designs, often incorporating colorful threads and fabrics.
My Visit to Shiyoma: A Fabric Lover’s Paradise
Shiyoma store
In Hirosaki, I had the chance to visit Shiyoma, a cozy fabric store that felt like stepping into a treasure trove. The store preserves and celebrates kogin embroidery by offering everything you’d need to explore this tradition yourself—from threads and needles to guides filled with patterns.
A Glimpse into the Patterns
Today, kogin embroidery remains a cherished part of Tsugaru culture. The Kogin Institute has cataloged over 400 unique patterns and continues to educate the community. Schools in the region include kogin in their activities, ensuring that future generations carry this legacy forward.
Here are some of the stunning patterns I discovered—each one a testament to the creativity and skill of Tsugaru’s women.
Preserving the Tradition
If you ever find yourself in northern Japan, don’t miss the chance to visit Hirosaki. This charming city isn’t just a winter wonderland; it’s a living testament to how tradition and artistry can thrive in the face of adversity.
And of course I had to buy some fabric and some books there… I found a very cute pillow cover to practice Kogin embroidery making and a couple of books about the history and the different patterns. I will show you the process and results when I will finish it!