Yuzen: When dyeing becomes painting
The Yuzen technique: between tradition and exceptional craftsmanship
The Yuzen dyeing method, originating from Japan, relies on a unique and refined process: drawing motifs on fabric using a resist paste before dyeing it and then removing the paste. This process allows for the creation of incredibly detailed and complex patterns, where colors never mix. The result? Fabrics adorned with floral, vegetal, or geometric motifs, often enhanced with gold or silver leaf, resembling true works of art.
Imagine a vibrant fabric, adorned with motifs of flowers or leaves, delicately embroidered with gold or silver, like a precious painting.
In 2019, I had the opportunity to work with a traditional Japanese dyeing company, where we created three color variations for a silk scarf. During this experience, I discovered the Yuzen technique. Already familiar with embroidery and Shibori techniques, I was fascinated by the ingenuity and precision of the Yuzen process.
The History of Yuzen
The Yuzen technique is named after the painter Miyazaki Yuzen (宮崎友禅, 1654-1736), who lived during the Edo period (1603-1868) in the city of Kanazawa. Under his influence, Yuzen dyeing developed as a method allowing for great artistic freedom in creating motifs. According to legend, Miyazaki Yuzen developed a resist paste made from rice and soy, ideal for preventing colors from mixing and thus creating sophisticated patterns.
One of the most innovative tools he introduced was a paper cone with a metal tip, similar to a piping bag, allowing artists to draw with infinite precision. This invention revolutionized the art of dyeing, offering unprecedented artistic flexibility.
However, uncertainties remain regarding Miyazaki Yuzen's true involvement in the development of this technique. What is certain is that his name has remained associated with this complex method that has endured through the centuries. In 1688, the book Yuzen Patterns (Yusen Hinagata) praised his work, stating that "women of all social classes, from high-ranking wives to servants, dream of wearing a kimono designed by Yuzen."
A Textile Work of Art
What distinguishes Yuzen pictorially is the composition. Unlike repeated textile patterns often found, Yuzen considers the kimono as a whole canvas. Each motif is carefully designed to tell a story throughout the garment, rather than repeating in a loop. Imagine a kimono as a large painting, where every detail matters.
The Different Varieties of Yuzen
There are three main types of Yuzen:
Kyo Yuzen (京友禅): The oldest form, with motifs often enhanced with gold and silver leaf and detailed embroidery.
Kaga Yuzen (加賀友禅): Known for its realistic floral and vegetal motifs, with softer tones and less ornamentation than Kyo Yuzen.
Tokyo Yuzen (東京友禅): A more modern and colorful version, reflecting contemporary influences.
The Yuzen Process: A Team Effort of Master Artisans
Yuzen dyeing is a complex process consisting of about twenty distinct steps, each requiring the expertise of specialized artisans. Here’s an overview of the main steps:
Creating the Motif: The artist designs the motif on a small scale, then reproduces it in full size on paper, which will be transferred to the fabric. The fabric, usually white silk, is stretched over bamboo to prevent contact with any surface.
Applying the Resist Paste: A paste made from rice and soy is applied along the edges of the motif to prevent the dyes from overflowing, creating clean and precise lines.
Dyeing the Background: Once the paste is in place, the background of the fabric is dyed using large brushes. This step requires great dexterity to ensure a uniform color.
Fixing the Colors: The colors are fixed with steam at a temperature of about 100°C for 30 to 40 minutes. The fabric is then rinsed to remove the resist paste and reveal the motifs.
Finishing Touches: Gold or silver accents may be added, as well as embroidery to enhance certain details of the motif.
Each step is carried out by hand, with meticulous precision, requiring years of training to master every aspect of the process. It is common for several artisans to collaborate on a single kimono, each specialized in a particular step. It is not unusual for a kimono to take several months or even an entire year to complete.
The Value of Yuzen and Its Threatened Heritage
A kimono created using the Yuzen technique can cost between €15,000 and €35,000, depending on the complexity of the motif and the materials used. While these garments are precious works of art, the Yuzen technique is currently threatened by the rise of fast fashion, which prioritizes rapid, low-cost production at the expense of traditional craftsmanship.
Despite this, Yuzen survives thanks to the passion of a few dedicated artisans and the recognition of discerning enthusiasts. These masters continue to pass on their expertise from generation to generation, thereby perpetuating a centuries-old tradition of artisanal excellence.