Nubi, the ancient art of Korean quilting
Korean Nubi, a story of a textile tradition
Nubi is a traditional Korean sewing technique that involves assembling layers of fabric by stitching them together in regular straight lines.
Etymology of Nubi
A solely Korean term
Mentioned for the first time in the Yongbieocheonga (“Songs of Dragons Flying to the Sky”), the first book written in Hangul and published in 1447, the word Nubi seems to derive from the word Nap-ui, which referred to a garment made of worn and patched fabrics worn by Buddhist monks in their ascetic practices.
Title: Nap-ui, Quilted upper garment for Buddhist Priest
Maker: Unkown
Date: 19th century
Dimensions: L:93cm, ½W+S.L:63cm, W:53cm
Rights: Seok Juseon Memorial Museum, Dankook University
Literary works, including Buddhist writings like the Wolinseokbo (“The Reflection of the Moon in the Genealogy of Buddha,” 1459), also reference this technique. Although the term has been transcribed in various Chinese characters, as they do not have exact translations, we have today retained only the sound of the word: Nubi.
History of Nubi
The history of traditional Korean Nubi, this unique quilting technique, remains difficult to trace accurately. Due to the harsh winters in Korea, it is likely that Nubi developed early on to protect against the cold and the elements.
The earliest textile remnants date back to the Joseon period, and although other older artifacts have been discovered, they were not made using Nubi.
The preservation of clothing in Korean history poses a real challenge. Made from natural and plant-based materials, these textiles are sensitive to environmental conditions. Korea, with its humid summers and snowy winters, does not offer a favorable climate for fabric preservation. Moreover, the Japanese and Manchu invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries, followed by Japanese colonization in the 20th century and the Korean War, further reduced the number of textile artifacts that have survived to this day.
Additionally, under the patriarchal society of Joseon, based on Confucian principles, sewing and weaving techniques were passed down from generation to generation by women, often without leaving written records. As a result, few writings detailing these skills have survived.
Despite these challenges, some certainties about the history of Nubi persist.
The earliest representations of Nubi appear in frescoes from the Goguryeo kingdom (4th-6th centuries), where monks are depicted wearing red and black robes, as seen in the Ssangyongchong and Muyongchong tombs. In the tomb of Gamsinchong, a warrior seems to be wearing padded armor, probably made using the Nubi technique.
The first Nubi artifacts discovered come from the Cheonmachong tomb (5th-6th centuries). These include a saddle pad and a saddle plate, the "Maldarae," designed to protect the rider from splashes of dirt. This pad, made of three layers of birch bark sewn in diamond patterns, testifies to the use of Nubi to reinforce and protect fabrics, especially in armor.
Nubi under Joseon: Between utility and aesthetics
During the Joseon period, Nubi diversified, particularly in the creation of insulating garments for men and women, Nap-ui robes worn by Buddhist monks, and warriors' armor. Over time, its use extended to bedding, shoes, curtains, and even accessories like pouches. The Nubi garments found mainly date from the 17th century, although some pieces from the 16th and 18th centuries have also been discovered.
Initially, Nubi primarily served to insulate against the cold, but over the centuries, sewing techniques have refined, and the aesthetic aspect of clothing has gained importance. More sophisticated variants, such as Jannubi and Jungnubi, emerged, sometimes using silk fabrics to combine elegance and functionality.
Different from Quilt
Quilting finds its roots in the Latin word "culcita," meaning a bag or mattress filled with feathers or wool, reflecting its initial use as insulation. The oldest known quilt, a linen rug with large stitches, dates back 2000 years and was discovered in Mongolia.
Initially used for bedcovers, curtains, and clothing, quilting has become both decorative and practical with the development of the cotton industry.
Quilting is divided into three main categories: "plain quilt," "appliqué quilt," and "pieced quilt," the latter two using patchwork techniques.
Korean Nubi, on the other hand, favors solid-colored fabrics and straight stitching lines, while Western quilts often play with multicolored fabrics and curvilinear patterns. Moreover, Nubi is primarily intended for garment making, while Western quilts are mainly used for bedding.
Nubi today
While Korean fashion today leaves little room for Nubi due to the globalization of clothing and styles, it can still be found in every Korean household.
Sheets and Covers
Indeed, unlike in France, where we wrap our blankets in sheets to wash them separately, Koreans use Nubi blankets that they put entirely into the washing machine, whether as a mattress protector or as a cover.
You can also find winter jackets and coats made using the Nubi technique in stores. While these are mostly worn by older individuals today, it is not unlikely that Nubi garments will regain a prominent place in tomorrow's fashion.